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Grey Matter

From the sex workers of Sonagachi to the fisher folk of Bengal — GenNext designers opened Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017 with inspired lines.

Saaksha Parekh and Kinnari Kamat’s collection “Amourage”. (Photo: Dilip Kagda)

With a surfeit of black and grey, the GenNext show on Day One of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2017 in Mumbai may have been short on colour, but it wasn’t lacking in variety and inspiration. Designers presented collections that were strong and gender-fluid. Here’s a breakdown of the collections displayed by the five aspiring designer labels:

Anaam by Sumiran Kabir Chawla: Chawla’s label made its debut with a collection inspired by Kolkata’s red light district Sonagachi. He presented a gender-neutral line using suiting fabric and gave the models the appearance of rampaging warriors in flowing uniforms. He employed a mix of ingenious draping and pattern-making techniques, and the wool and wool blends used were turned into black toga-like maxis, capes, wraps skirts, draped hem kaftans and shawl covers in black and grey.

Bloni by Akshat Bansal: The monochrome line inspired by snow-clad terrains saw generous use of crochet as well as tie-and-dye. There was a distinct androgynous feel to the bermudas, kurtas, shirts and churidars that bore the tree motif. Traditional Chanderi fabric was paired with Italian crêpe in asymmetric tunics, ankle-length pants and over-sized coats.

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Deepak Pathak: Inspired by Bengali fishermen, the Varanasi-based designer’s collection, titled “Integument”, focused on techniques such as jacquard knitting and flock printing. We especially liked the knits that came in the form of asymmetric dresses, midi with coat, palazzos and knitted maxis.

Untitled Co. by Shenali Sema and Rinzin Lama: The designer duo presented a collection inspired by the art of Japanese printmaking. Using treadle embroidered, single stitch technique, along with cut-work and heat-set micro pleating, the designer duo created a feminine line in shades of beige and watery blue. The soft silhouettes included maxis, drop-waist dresses, wrap midis and smocks.

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Saaksha and Kinni by Saaksha Parekh and Kinnari Kamat: Their collection “Amourage” drew inspiration from the life of Tomoe Gozen, a 12th century Samurai warrior woman. They paired chiffon and Chanderi with metal woven sheets. Floral embroideries and shimmer were used with strong stripes and muted hues. Tiered maxis met embroidered gilets, beaded tops, striped jackets and cropped blouses made it an interesting mix
of separates.

First uploaded on: 17-08-2017 at 00:00 IST
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