Seven amazing reasons to visit St Peter Port: the tiny capital that's big on charm

The old concept of good things coming in small packages feels particularly appropriate when applied to the capital of Guernsey (visitguernsey.com). Pinned to the east coast of the second biggest of the Channel Islands, St Peter Port is by no definition a large place - less than three square miles in area and home to a mere 18,000 people. But the port is an enclave of irrepressible charm, with cobbled streets inching up a steep hillside and spires and towers - such as that crowning the Town Church - creating an attractive skyline.

If you visit towards the end of the summer you will also be able to tempt your taste buds at the Guernsey Food Festival, which is becoming an established affair. This year's event from September 16-24 (guernseyfoodfestival.gg), its third incarnation, will feature cooking demonstrations and food stalls on the seafront.

1. Adventures on foot

Tendering into port is the norm in St Peter Port, but once ashore attractions are close and the town is easily explored on foot. Guided walks are run by the tourist board (guernseyguidedtours.com) from April to October, departing daily at 10.30am (and 2.30pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays) from Guernsey Information Centre on the harbourside North Esplanade. The 90-minute tours cost £8.

2. Fascinating fortresses

Protecting the town for more than eight centuries, Castle Cornet (museums.gov.gg; £10.50) is one of the most intriguing fortresses in the British Isles. Construction began in 1206 - two years after King John had lost Normandy to France and the nearby European shoreline had become hostile. Some of the guts of the structure date back to this period, but another era is equally visible: walls are carved with names and dates added during the Nazi occupation of Guernsey from June 1940 to May 1945. One gun turret is scratched with the word "Else" - a tribute to some sweetheart in Bavaria or Berlin?

3. Historic afternoon tea 

Guernsey's wartime experience flutters imperceptibly up the hill on St Ann's Place, where the Old Government House hotel (theoghhotel.com), used by the occupiers as their General Staff Headquarters, would have swirled with the cigarette smoke of German officers. Today it has an airier feel, as a luxe accommodation option where you can enjoy afternoon tea (from £21) in the courtyard garden. In fact, afternoon tea is something of a tradition in St Peter Port. You can also indulge at the Duke of Richmond hotel (dukeofrichmond.com) in Cambridge Park, where a cream tea with scones and jam costs a bargain £9 - or push the boat out with the Champagne Afternoon Tea (£30pp).

4. The Slaughterhouse

If you prefer savoury to sweet, the latest addition to St Peter Port's restaurant scene is a must-visit. Slotted on to Castle Pier, the Slaughterhouse (slaughterhouse.gg) makes no secret of its origins - it used to be the town's abattoir. Cleverly repurposed as a sophisticated eatery, it re-emerged in April as a lunch and dinner possibility with an unsurprisingly meat-heavy menu - dishes such as beef shin macaroni cheese (£14) and fennel pollen-crusted lamb loin with miso and cauliflower purée (£21) should not disappoint. The meat hooks have been left in situ as an authentic design flourish.

5. Victor Hugo's 19th-century home

Tucked neatly into a residential street is Hauteville House, home of the great 19th-century French writer Victor Hugo from 1856 to 1870. It was here, overlooking the port, that he wrote part of his landmark tome Les Misérables while waiting out his exile from a France in which, due to his criticism of Napoleon III, he was persona non grata.

With certain irony, the property is now owned and administered by the city of Paris (maisonsvictorhugo.paris.fr), and can be visited by guided tour only (April to September; £8). It was artfully decorated by Hugo in dark polished wood, with intricate carvings. He found the Channel vistas from the third-floor "look-out" a source of inspiration.

6. Lush gardens

Hugo is also present, in statue form (as is Queen Victoria), in Candie Gardens - the green space adorning the hillside at the top of Candie Road. This is a pleasing spot to stop and survey your surroundings or perhaps dip into the calm of the Guernsey Museum (museums.gov.gg; £6.50), where the Rona Cole Art Gallery cradles more than 200 paintings (plus a Rodin bust of, yes, Victor Hugo). Coffee and cake also await at Café Victoria.

7. Beach breaks on Herm

An afternoon in St Peter Port can be an opportunity to sample not only one Channel Island, but two. Guernsey's little neighbour Herm (herm.com) lies just three miles to the east, a 20-minute boat ride (traveltrident.com; from £11). Ferries chug across to an outcrop whose car-free contours and meandering pathways somehow make St Peter Port seem (relatively) crowded and noisy.

There is much to recommend an amble over the heart of the island to its east flank - where Belvoir Bay, with its perfect tranche of golden sand, may be one of the loveliest beaches in Europe, while the adjacent Shell Beach is barely less picturesque.

If you fancy some pre-dinner refreshment, pop into either the Mermaid Tavern (pints of beer from £3) or the White House Hotel, which has a long wine list in the Conservatory Restaurant (herm.com/where-to-eat).

Essentials

P&O Cruises offers a two-night Guernsey cruise from Southampton, departing September 15, 2017. From £229pp (0344 338 8003; pocruises.com). Azamara Club Cruises offers a 10-night Normandy and Amsterdam cruise from Lisbon to Greenwich departing June 7, 2018. From £2,162pp, cruise only (0844 493 4016; azamaraclubcruises.co.uk). Fred Olsen Cruise Lines offers an eight-night Charming Cities of France and Guernsey round trip from Liverpool, departing July 12, 2018. From £1,099pp (0845 287 5651; fredolsencruises.com).