How the Northeast states are making a mark in Indian fashion

As models walked down the ramp in shades of ivory, a thin black strip stood out in their otherwise restrained ensembles — it had striking motifs of the Meitei tribe. It was Manipur-based designer Richana Khumanthem’s ode to her land and its traditions at the Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai earlier this year.
A teller of tales through textiles, she says she is drawn towards history-soaked sartorial treasures: “I don’t feel the need to school people on the crafts of the Northeast and its indigenous fabrics. For me, it is a creative outlet.”


It is not just designers from the Northeast who are making a mark in Indian fashion, drawing on and giving a twist to local traditions. What was started years ago by models Dipannita Sharma and Monikangana Dutta from Assam is being carried forward by a slew of fresh faces from the region: Andrea Kevichusa from Nagaland, Jantee Hazarika and Suzanne Baker from Assam and Peka Fanai from Mizoram. And this is just a small sample. The big story is Ketholeno Kense from Nagaland, who has become the face of Fabindia.

“Indians are finally learning to be more inclusive,” says fashion commentator Prasad Bidapa. “The Northeast is a vibrant society that is very youthful and international in its thinking. Today designers are leading from the front. Many models, too, come from the region. I hope to see more and more joining the industry.”

Rin Jajo, a creative consultant with Jabong, has a ringside view of the changes sweeping through the fashion industry. The man from Ukhrul, Manipur, started out a decade ago as a stylist when it was not even a full-time job description. He now sees brands as being more open to using Northeastern faces in their campaigns. “The influx of models from the region and their acceptance by brands has been a big shift. They are the visible face of change,” he says.

That diversity has become a fashionable word can be seen in the global fashion industry, too. The talented Virgil Abloh has become the first person of African descent to become the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear line. The theme of Abloh’s debut collection at the Paris Fashion Week 2018 was Diversity. When models walked down, the show notes mentioned the looks and had a map that showed where the models — predominantly people of colour — and their parents came from.

A push on the same lines was made by IMG Reliance, in collaboration with the UN and the British Council, to scour the Northeast for fresh talent in design and modelling. In 2016, it hosted the Made in Assam talent show in Guwahati. The Lakme Fashion Week’s Summer Resort 2018 edition also had a special showcase for Northeast fashion, using six designers from the region. Jaspreet Chandok, vice-president and head of fashion, IMG Reliance, says, “The Northeast, with its rich textile culture, has been under-represented in Indian fashion. Also, interventions have been sporadic in nature, so our first focus was to ensure the creation of longterm, sustained projects. The goal is to develop it into a consumer product of scale that can be embraced by brands ensuring volumes that actually impact livelihood.”

The crafts, textiles and culture of Northeast have been getting a lot of attention. The Act East Policy of the government to strengthen ties with Asean countries has also created trade and business opportunities.


The designers are certainly not complaining. Till two years ago, Atsu Sekhose from Nagaland was probably the only well-known designer from there. Now there are Jenjum Gadi from Arunachal Pradesh, Khumanthem from Manipur, Daniel Syiem from Meghalaya, Aratrik Dev Varman from Tripura and Karma Sonam from Sikkim. Their USP: use locally sourced, locally made textiles and promote such identities.




Gadi’s is a fairy tale fashion story. A fatherless farm boy, he came to Delhi for a degree but decided to do a fashion course instead. He started out in 2008 and was hustling till 2014. He decided to take stock of his life in 2015, and went back home for a year to refocus. “City living is a big shock for people from the Northeast. There’s pressure to fit in. Also, one of my biggest challenges till date has been dealing with workers and fabric suppliers — language, their attitude towards us and overcharging.” Gadi was part of the Lakme Fashion Week’s Northeast showcase. He now plans to work with local fabrics in collaboration with an NGO, Northeast Project, and has switched gears to menswear. Khumanthem and Syiem, too, want to work with local weavers to create employment back home.

Khumanthem attributes the interest in her work to the wave of sustainability, homegrown brands and minimalism. Her flagship store is in Imphal. “Working out of Manipur has its pros and cons. Most of the Northeastern states are far removed from the mainland. So there is a scarcity in the variety of things we get, like trims, buttons, laces, yarns, etc. But as a designer whose work revolves around the culture of the Northeast, the pros outweigh the cons. There is no lack of creative inspiration here. I also get to work closely with the weavers.”

Shillong-based Syiem, regarded locally as a well-earning dorgi (darji) , sees a growing appreciation for local textiles among his people. “We have designer boutiques mushrooming across Shillong and famous brands setting up shop. But it still feels like hype or a new trend. A few mentions in fashion magazines, blogs, invitation to fashion shows and events can only do so much. A long-term integration with the so-called main fashion industry is what we are hoping for. We need bigger buyers and investors. The focus towards us has to be consistent enough to a point where it’s not Northeast fashion designer or Northeastern textiles but all India.”

Sekhose knows the blood, sweat and tears it takes to make a mainstream brand. Known for his use of Naga weaves and embroideries, he also does Indian festive wear (the backbone of any fashion business in India) and is now looking to launch menswear and kidswear. “For young designers, making a brand in the big city is a challenge. It’s a vast market and can get daunting,” he says.

What helps is the sense of community. Designer Sonam Dubal of Sikkimese origin says they thrive on collaboration and not competition. Jajo of Jabong says, “We look out for each other. It can help get more representation for my people.”



What’s needed, says Bidapa, is an all-India approach. “Northeastern designers must broaden the scope of their markets. This will be made possible by ecommerce models. International markets are opening up and all Indian designers need to work on projects where traditional textiles and techniques create globally relevant fashion.”