Celebrity photographer Rankin reveals how to capture the perfect online close-up

  • Rankin has photographed Britain's most famous faces including the Queen
  • He shared his advice for capturing the perfect online close-up 
  • He says people forget the background is just as important as their face  

Picture the scene: you join your first work video call (or Skype with friends or someone special) hoping to look groomed.

Instead, your gurning face stares back at you with every wrinkle, blemish or stray grey hair on show — all helpfully highlighted by your overhead lighting. Even worse, you must confront your imperfections on-screen for the entire call.

But while quarantine throws up daily challenges, video calls need not be one of them. There’s an art to being a screen siren, and you can learn it. Celebrity photographer Rankin shows you how…

BE A BRIGHT SPARK

Rankin, who has captured Britain’s most famous faces from the Queen to Kate Moss, says: ‘Just as there are plenty of practical tricks to getting a great shot, so too is there a checklist you can follow to look your best on a video call.

Celebrity photographer Rankin (pictured), shared his advice for looking groomed in online close-ups

Celebrity photographer Rankin (pictured), shared his advice for looking groomed in online close-ups 

‘Personality is still the key to a great result — the way you perform on camera. The temptation is to stare at your own face, but resist the urge. Look through the lens and try to connect with each person.’

When it comes to lighting, ‘make sure the light source is in front of you. Back lighting means others won’t be able to see you properly.

‘Overhead lighting will cast parts of your face in shadow, while spotlighting others. That’s only a good look if you’re Tony Soprano.

‘Sit facing a window with daylight on your face, or move a lamp to get the same effect. Choose one source only — combining natural and artificial light can wash you out.’

THE LENS IS A FRIEND

‘Distance. It’s a hot topic right now!’ says Rankin. Don’t get too close to your screen or you’ll look like Big Brother. Sit about arm’s length from your laptop or phone, roughly 2ft away. Your image should look like a headshot, with just your head and shoulders visible.

‘If you’re using your phone, your arm will ache and you’ll get a wobbly frame if you hold it throughout. Prop it up on books on a table.

‘The angle of the camera is also key. You want it straight on to your face if possible. Nearly all lenses on laptops and phones are wide-angle, so if it’s too high or low you will definitely look out of proportion.

‘Looking down will give the impression of a fuller face, so aim for the lens to be level with the middle of your chin or, if you can, slightly higher than you. Looking up ever so slightly will make your eyes open wider, which is more flattering.’

Rankin claims people often forget that the background is just as important as their face, it's best to sit in front of a plain wall (file image)

Rankin claims people often forget that the background is just as important as their face, it's best to sit in front of a plain wall (file image) 

Tech expert Danielle De Wolfe suggests buying a laptop stand. She says: ‘The Roost stand (£94.99, well working.co.uk) folds up to the size of a pencil case. For a sturdy option, an aluminium Nulaxy stand (£52.99, amazon.co.uk) is hard to beat.’

MAKE-UP MATTERS

Make-up artist Virna Midgley says: ‘Aim to look polished but natural. Apply a coffee or copper eyeshadow. Earthy tones will brighten your eyes, which is essential as video calls tend to make them look darker.

‘Slightly tilt your head down to apply concealer, patting it on from the corner of your eye with your ring finger. If you’re looking directly into a mirror, you cannot judge the dark areas under your eyes properly.

‘You should go lower than you think, too — don’t apply in a banana shape under the eye, but in an inverted triangle with the mid-point of your cheekbone at the bottom.’

‘Add a pop of cheek colour, as people often look washed-out on webcams. Nude lipsticks add to this, so try a brick red shade. Pat it on with a finger to avoid harsh lines.

‘Finally, sweep a little light powder on to dampen down shine. I would stay away from highlighters, too —any light on a video call will pick up on that like lightning.’

BACKGROUND CHECK

‘People forget that what’s behind them is just as important as their face,’ says Rankin.

‘You may think sitting in front of a well-stocked bookcase will impress, but if you can, opt for a light, plain wall with no photos, textures or objects. You want people looking at you, not the background.

‘Get your framing right, too. Aim for about five per cent of the screen above your head to be empty. And make sure you’re centred in the camera’s view.

‘Try to wear monochrome colours and avoid patterns, logos or branding. Save that look-at-me top or dress for after-work fun.’

IF IN DOUBT, GET TECHY

‘We are so used to seeing an idealised version of our faces thanks to filters on social media,’ says Danielle. ‘Enter the reality check of Skype or Zoom. Suddenly you’re seeing your real face in HD precision, as the megapixels on laptop and phone cameras go up and up.

But luckily Zoom has an air-brushing feature to make everything look less stark. ‘If you’re using it on your phone, click on the settings icon at the bottom right,’ advises Danielle. ‘Go to Meetings and scroll down to Touch Up My Appearance. Make sure the setting is on.

‘If you’re using Zoom on your laptop, click on the Settings icon at the top right. Then choose Video and make sure the Touch Up My Appearance box is ticked.’ This applies a filter to blur out blemishes and make your skin look brighter.

As told to Bella Battle.   

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