Argentina is fifth largest wine producer yet remains mystery for Irish drinkers
ARGENTINA is the world’s fifth largest wine producer yet remains something of a mystery to most Irish wine lovers.
We all know about its Malbec, currently the world’s most fashionable red, and some will name Mendoza the nation’s biggest wine region.
But after that, knowledge of the globe’s tenth largest wine exporter will be rather sketchy.
I have never been able to fathom why this sprawling south American nation remains such an enigma as there’s so much more to their wines than Mendoza Malbec.
The first vines were planted around 1550 by Catholic priests travelling with the Spanish colonisers, to guarantee a supply of wine to celebrate mass.
However, the development of viticulture really began with the arrival of immigrants, from Spain and Italy, in the mid-19th century.
DOMESTIC MARKET
But most, if not all, of the wine produced was mediocre and only for sale in the domestic market. Credible investment in the industry did not start until the mid-1990s.
Money flowed in from overseas with the realisation of the untapped potential for crafting modern style wines.
Vineyard sites were identified and planted, new cellars constructed, old ones modernised, and production methods dragged into the 20th century.
These “new” wines, particularly fruity, full-bodied reds, began to win admirers from far outside Argentina.
In the past 30 years new wine regions have been developed, many on the slopes or in the shadow of the Andes mountain range which runs the length of the country in the west.
SWATHES OF GRENNERY
These vineyards are swathes of greenery amid arid, semi-desert lands. The snow-topped mountains supply much-needed water for irrigation.
And regularly at altitude - up to 3,000 metres at Salta in the north – there is little worry about diseased fruit, while night temperatures drop enough to allow grapes to develop those vital sugars and flavours slowly and naturally.
While Mendoza remains Argentina’s best known and biggest wine area, intensive studies have led to sites, soils and climatic conditions that are most suited to specific grape varieties.
Further north, some 1,350kms from Mendoza, lies vineyards in Salta, Tucuman, and Catamarca, where besides Malbec, Torrontes, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat and Bonarda are showing well.
PRODUCING EXCITING WINES
Besides Mendoza in the central area, La Rioja and San Juan have emerged as notable wine growing areas, with Syrah again producing exciting wines, while recent plantings of Tempranillo are promising.
Down south in Patagonia, winemakers in La Pampa, Rio Negro and Chebut are excited about Pinot Noir, Merlot and Syrah.
These are exciting times for the wines of Argentina, which can no longer be labelled a Malbec one-trick pony!
At a recent masterclass and tasting I was mightily impressed by the Bodega Clarascura Cabernet Franc (ABV 14.5%), at €17.50 from good independents.
With single vineyard fruit from Vista Flores in the Uco Valley, central Mendoza, it has intense, dark red fruit flavours with herbal notes and a hint of oak.
Two most agreeable whites were the Dona Paula Los Cardos Sauvignon Blanc (ABV 13%), widely available at €12, and the Susana Balba Crios Torrontes (ABV 13%) from Wines Direct for €16.70.
The Sauvignon Blanc, a dangerously easy-drinker, is fresh, and well balanced with citrus and exotic notes.
The Torrontes, from Salta, has surprising elegance and a little weight along with a nice zestiness, with citrus notes on the palate.
Don David Tannat (ABV 14%), at €16.95 from good independents, is crafted from fruit grown at 1800m in the Calchaqui Valley, Tucuman, in the northwest.
Firm tannins, oak, spice, dark chocolate, and blackberry fruit all combine to make a special wine.
A column on Argentinian wine would not be complete without a Malbec and the organic Casa de Uco El Salvaje (ABV 14%).
Casa de Uco El Salvaje (ABV 14%), at €19.95 @ O’Briens Wines is exceptional - a wonderful expression of this grape with dark berry fruits, a herbaceous edge, and a subtle use of oak.
