Explore Rhode Island's rich Native American history and culture, all in one day

It would take weeks to fully savor all of Rhode Island's rich Native American history, heritage and culture, but a one-day exploration of prominent places is nonetheless rewarding.

And so, mindful of the recommendations of Indigenous leaders and my own reporting over the years, I set off recently on a day trip that anyone with a vehicle can take.

'Still Here' mural

I started in Providence, where the rush-hour commute was subsiding as I drove along Dyer Street, across the Providence River from College Hill. I turned off at Pine Street, parked, and gazed up at "Still Here," a towering mural on a wall of 32 Custom House St.

Commissioned by The Avenue Concept and painted by Baltimore artist Gaia in collaboration with the Tomaquag Museum in Exeter, "Still Here" depicts Narragansett Lynsea Montanari holding a photograph of the late Princess Red Wing (Narragansett/Niantic, Pokanoket), a driving force in the founding of Tomaquag.

I recalled what Tomaquag Executive Director Lorén Spears (Narragansett/Niantic) had told me before my tour: "Keep in mind every place is our homeland, even if the urban sprawl has erased that from the front of people's minds."

Pokanoket Burial Ground

From Providence, I drove to Warren, where I visited Burr’s Hill Royal Pokanoket Burial Site. Here, remains of Native Americans, including the great Sachem Massasoit, who died centuries ago, lie beneath grass-covered mounds. Sachem Tracey Dancing Star Brown and Sagamore William Winds of Thunder Guy (both from Pokanoket Tribe/Pokanoket Nation) gave me some of the history of the site. It was desecrated in the mid-1800s to build a railroad. A sign on Water Street summarizes the history of the site.

Miantanomi Memorial Park

Route 114 South brought me to Newport and Miantanomi Memorial Park. A steep walk up a hill brought me to a clearing and a World War I memorial. In the 1600s, the hill was the seat of power for Miantanomi (also sometimes spelled Miantonomo or Miantonomah), a Narragansett Indian sachem. In his time, Narraganset Bay and the Atlantic Ocean were visible from the hilltop, but trees have since obscured the view. A sea breeze cools the spot, and benches provide opportunity for quiet reflection.

Great Swamp Monument

I descended the hill, drove across the Pell and Jamestown bridges, and followed Route 1 South to 138 West past the University of Rhode Island to South County Trail, Route 2. I headed south and about two miles later took a left onto Great Swamp Monument Road. Roughly a mile in is the Great Swamp Monument, which commemorates the most violent incident in Rhode Island history: the 1675 Great Swamp Massacre of Narragansett and Niantic children, women, men and elders. Near here, deeper into the South Kingstown woods than is easily accessible today, white Colonists slaughtered and burned alive hundreds of Native Americans. The monument is an appropriate place to contemplate the long history of genocide and injustices against America’s original people.

Sly Fox Den Too restaurant

Back on Route 2, I traveled south to 4349 South County Trail, Charlestown, and the just-opened Sly Fox Den Too restaurant, owned and operated by Native Americans and featuring Indigenous foods, keyed to the season. Lunch had just ended when I arrived — darn! — but the diners I spoke with raved about the food at the restaurant, which is open most days for breakfast and lunch and will soon offer dinner, according to chef and owner Sherry Pocknett (Wampanoag). I will definitely be returning for a meal.

Indian Burial Ground

Leaving Sly Fox Den Too, I journeyed further south and took a left onto Narrow Lane, stopping at a trailhead that leads to the top of a hill and a cemetery variously known as Indian Burial Ground and Royal Indian Burial Ground, where Narragansett and Niantic sachems and their families, including the legendary Chief Ninigret, are buried. The parking area is small and the trail, at least at the start, was poorly maintained, so I did not make the ascent. But it’s on my to-do list, for sure. 

Ninigret Park

In my car again, I drove south on Narrow Lane to Route 1 South and made my way to Ninigret Park in Charlestown. Getting there requires a couple of those maddening Route 1 South County loop-de-loops, so be sure you have your cellphone or GPS. The traffic nonsense is worth the payoff: the park is a modern-day treasure, on land Niantics and Narragansetts used for farming, fishing, hunting and gathering fruits, nuts, berries and edible plants. Here, they praised The Creator for such abundance.

Tomaquag Museum

My final stop was Tomaquag, 390 A Summit Rd., Exeter, the state’s only exclusively Native American museum. It was closed on the day of my trip (a Thursday) but is open Wednesdays from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Large-group tours are available. Having visited the museum countless times for Providence Journal stories, I can attest to the depth of its collections and its superb staff. The gift shop sells works of art, jewelry, clothing, woodwork and other items made by more than 25 local Indigenous artists. The museum also sponsors many online and in-person programs. Tomaquag has become such a success that a new museum will be built on land near the University of Rhode Island for a new home to replace the present outdated building.

If you do visit Tomaquag, take advantage of the hiking, fishing, boating and picnicking opportunities afforded by nearby Acadia Management Area. This, too, was Indigenous land.

And yes, Rhode Island’s Native Americans are still here.