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HOTEL GUIDE

The New Inn, Isles of Scilly, hotel review: ‘You could be in the Maldives’

Tresco’s only inn, with chic revamped rooms, is a heavenly reason to visit the archipelago

A double at the New Inn
A double at the New Inn
The Times

What’s the story?

Owned by the Duchy of Cornwall and leased by the Dorrien-Smith family since 1834, Tresco is the second-largest (two and a half miles long by a mile wide) of the five inhabited Isles of Scilly — all about 30 miles west of mainland Cornwall. The quickest means of access is a 15-minute helicopter flight from Penzance; alternatively sail on the Scillonian III passenger ferry to St Mary’s in under three hours, then transfer to Tresco on a much smaller ferry. Though the island has about 100 self-catering cottages, this 19th-century inn with 16 revamped rooms and a lovely residents-only lounge is the place to stay if you’d rather someone else cooked breakfast.

What do we like?

Very much the community pub, this feels like a proper meeting place for locals and the many returning families who holiday on Tresco every year. A recent refurbishment hardly touched the traditional bar — where walls, made from timber jettisoned by a passing cargo ship in 1994, are lined with maritime memorabilia. But a long dining space called the Pavilion feels fresh and modern. Painted in Farrow & Ball’s muted green Lichen, the vaulted ceiling here also nods to the location behind New Grimsby harbour and the sea beyond, visible through floor-to-ceiling windows at one end. Beyond this is a newly added terrace, the best spot when the sun shines. Huge, bamboo lobster pot-like pendant lights, zinc-topped tables and striped banquettes complete the look.

The menu blends classics (beef burgers, sirloin steaks, fish and chips; the last is disappointingly bland) with seafood. Crab sandwiches are excellent, as are the whole mackerel, cooked on the outdoor grill and served with buttery new potatoes, a pickled vegetable salad and salsa verde. There is Tribute Cornish pale ale on tap.

The Pavilion dining area
The Pavilion dining area

All the bedrooms are simple yet stylish thanks to turquoise tongue-and-groove wood panelling, plum-coloured flag-print bedheads and framed pressed flowers. Garden Terrace doubles, on the ground floor, have freestanding baths and their own patios with loungers.

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What’s nearby?

Tresco Abbey Garden, a 25-minute walk away, is the archipelago’s headline attraction, with entry included in your room rate. The microclimate facilitates the outdoor survival of exotic global plants that would stand little chance elsewhere in Britain. From here, it’s a short stroll to Pentle Bay, one of the island’s sensational white beaches — other standout beaches, unmarked on the official map, flank Old Blockhouse, an artillery fort ruin. All are usually deserted and, if it wasn’t for the water temperature, you could be in the Maldives. Bliss.

Emma Love was a guest of the New Inn, which has B&B doubles from £185; mains from £18 (tresco.co.uk). Helicopter transfers from £135pp one way (penzancehelicopters.co.uk). Ferry transfer from Penzance to St Mary’s from £66pp (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk); the boat on to Tresco costs £6pp (tresco.co.uk). Child-friendly; accessible; restaurant

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