40 surprising things you can do in winter (apart from ski)
By Jim Darby and Craig Tansley
A snow trip in Australia and New Zealand isn’t just about skiing or snowboarding down the runs. There’s so much more to do above, below and around the snowline – from ski touring, heliskiing, sled-dog tours, sharing a fondue in an igloo village, to family fun at the fireworks.
Did you know there are on-snow restaurants you can only reach by snow-cat? Or paragliding flights right off the top of ski mountains in New Zealand? Or you can go star-gazing at the world’s best dark sky sanctuaries.
Ski-touring at Thredbo.
While you may be familiar with Australasia’s major ski resorts, like Thredbo, Perisher, Falls Creek and The Remarkables, and the Antipodes’ best-known ski towns like Queenstown and Jindabyne, what about lesser-known destinations, like New Zealand’s Mackenzie Country or the country’s secret powder-snow havens – its club fields?
Here are 40 things you should know about making the most of your ski holiday in Australia or New Zealand this season.
IN AND AROUND THE RESORTS
Savour an alpine sunrise
Meet in the dark before dawn and make your way up to the top of Thredbo, NSW, in a snow-cat. Watch the sunrise over the Snowy Mountains, enjoy breakfast at Eagle’s Nest and then get first tracks all the way down the Supertrail. Sunrise Sessions run from late July to late August. See thredbo.com.au
Pay homage to a legend
The sculpture of the late Hans Grimus and his dog Captain, installed at Mt Buller, May 2023. Pictured here is Grimus’ son Hannes.
Victoria’s Mount Buller sets the benchmark when it comes to honouring its pioneers and legends. Hans Grimus was instrumental in establishing the lift network and later mountain hospitality under his own name at Pension Grimus. A statue of Grimus and his dog, Captain, has just been unveiled near the Village Centre, and it’s all-set for selfies. See nama.org.au
Take in a drag show
All the world over, drag lifts (also known as pomas, T-Bars or rope tows) have been superseded by chairlifts because they’re easier to ride and move more people. But at Falls Creek, Victoria, there’s a 1.2 kilometre classic that endures and the International Poma even has its own fan group on Facebook. It services some of the resort’s most challenging terrain and is a thrill to ride. See fallscreek.com.au
Ride with the cool cats
Jump in a snow-cat to the top of Victoria’s Mount Hotham for Australia’s highest sunset tour. Start your tour with prosecco and cheese, then ride to 1861 metres for a hot chocolate as the setting sun illuminates peaks like Feathertop or Bogong, Buffalo and Buller in the distance. See mthotham.com.au
Getting going on the gondola
Hop aboard Australia’s only alpine gondola from the heart of Thredbo village right to the slopes. Enjoy stunning mountain views as you take the six-minute European-style gondola ride to the Cruiser ski area, or just ride it to eat at Merritts Mountain House. See thredbo.com.au
Come over all mushy
Team up with a team of trained Siberian huskies as they take you for a tour through the snowy wilderness around Mount Buller. Choose between a 15-minute introductory tour or an intensive three-hour expedition where you’ll get to drive the dogs yourself. See mtbuller.com.au
Park yourself here
Falls Creek and its terrain parks – one for every skier or boarder.
From the huge air off the jumps in the Castle Terrain Park to the small boxes to ride at Drovers and Panorama, Falls Creek has it set so every skier or boarder can ride a terrain park. The Victorian resort has four of the best terrain parks in Australasia for everyone from total beginners to pro athletes. See fallscreek.com.au
Be the first to make tracks
Watch the sun come up at Perisher, NSW, and beat the crowds to make first tracks on freshly-groomed snow from 7.30am on Saturdays and Sundays from June 24 to September 10. All Epic Australia pass holders get First Tracks for free. See perisher.com.au
Make a flying visit
Fly in a charter plane from Lilydale Airport on Melbourne’s outskirts to Mount Hotham airport, hop aboard your shuttle to the slopes and then ski or board for the day, right up to the last lifts, and be back in Melbourne by 6pm. See lilydaleairport.com.au
Keep it plane and simple
Don’t want to drive the entire distance to Falls Creek from Sydney, Melbourne or elsewhere? Then land in Albury - Bonza now flies direct from the Sunshine Coast. Qantas also has direct flights from Brisbane, Adelaide and Melbourne and both Qantas and Rex fly direct between Albury and Sydney. Then simply hire a car or catch a shuttle. See flyalbury.com.au
WINE, DINE AND APRES SKI
Schnapps to it
The Apres Bar at the Denman.
It has been Australia’s most authentic European-style apres ski bar for over 20 years. The Apres Bar at Thredbo’s Denman Hotel is every local’s favourite, where ski boots are welcome and there’s always a crowd till late, seven nights a week. Enjoy live music, schnapps, German beer and European wine. See thedenman.com.au
Fall for Falls Creek’s finest
Astra Lodge, Falls Creek.
Astra Lodge, Australian title holder of “Best Boutique Ski Hotel” at the World Ski Awards, is in the heart of Falls Creek’s ski-in/ski-out village. The cocktail bar is a hit for apres ski and its restaurant is a standout in a village that probably sets the standard in Australia for mountain restaurants. See astrafallscreek.com.au
Snare a schnitzel
Hotel Pension Grimus.
On a sunny day at Mount Buller, Koflers and Tirol share the prize for lunch out on the deck, but for that combination of a bar with character and fine dining restaurant, Pension Grimus is the choice – start at Herbies Bar for an apres drink and then head next door to Kaptans Restaurant for the best schnitzel this side of Vienna. See pensiongrimus.com.au
KNOW YOUR SNOW
Australia’s biggest ski resort is Perisher which is the closest thing the country has to Europe’s mega-resorts. It has 65 kilometres of runs and 49 ski lifts.
Australasia’s highest chairlift is at Turoa with a top station at 2322 metres above sea level.
The longest snow seasons are in New Zealand. Turoa will occasionally remain open till November.
Australia’s first ski tow was a rope tow built at Mount Buffalo in 1937 with a V8 Cadillac engine as its power plant.
Australia’s steepest terrain inside the resort boundaries is at Mount Hotham and just beyond the boundaries, it’d be Buller. Correspondence welcome.
Australia’s deepest snow was recorded at Spencer Creek in the Snowy Mountains – 361 centimetres, September 1, 1981.
Australia’s longest ski run covers 5.9 kilometres at Thredbo, from Karel’s T-bar at 2037 metres altitude all the way down to the base for a vertical drop of 672 metres.
Don’t Miss it
At Miss Mary’s in Hotham Central, share Asian fusion dishes with some of the best cocktails in the Australian ski fields while looking out over Hotham Alpine Resort and the slopes and peaks beyond. The restaurant is expanding this season to include a new bar with the best views of all. See missmarys.com.au
Experience some alpine heritage
Enjoy an apres ski session Kiwi-style right below Cardrona Alpine Resort at a New Zealand favourite – the Cardrona Hotel. Join skiers and boarders in the legendary beer garden of this 159-year-old establishment among the mountains as the sun sets. See cardronahotel.co.nz
Head for the best bars none
With more than 150 bars and restaurants to choose from, Queenstown is home to arguably the best apres-ski bar scene on Earth. There’s everything from New Zealand’s number-one rated restaurant to urban wine bars serving locally grown – and world’s best – pinot noir to late-night dance bars. See queenstownnz.co.nz
Taste the Kiwi high-life
Knoll Ridge Chalet is New Zealand’s highest restaurant.
Take a 12-minute gondola ride within New Zealand’s largest ski area (Whakapapa) past frozen waterfalls and ancient lava flows up a dormant volcano to the highest restaurant in New Zealand, Knoll Ridge Chalet. Enjoy lunch at 2020 metres above sea level, then ski out. See visitruapehu.com
Take a different kind of ski course
Kareela Hutte at Thredbo.
Take a snow-cat ride up the slopes of Thredbo to Kareela Hutte, for a four-course dinner and wine experience presented by GH Mumm champagne). Dinners are available on Wednesday evenings from July 12 to August 30. See thredbo.com.au
Hit the hut
Take a pit-stop either pre or post-skiing or riding Thredbo or Perisher at Wildbrumby, Australia’s highest distillery. Try their award-winning gins, vodkas or liqueurs in the hut or on the terrace and enjoy the artful surroundings. See wildbrumby.com
Breakfast at Basecamp
Guthega, NSW, is part of the Perisher lift network, but the little village at the edge of the area is a hidden gem. And a highlight there is Basecamp Cafe for breakfast, lunch, good coffee and even an apres drink after a day ski touring or riding the lifts. It’s above the car park and at the base of the Car Park chairlift. No website.
BEYOND THE BOUNDARIES
Make a day of wonder of it
Fly up, land on a glacier and ski a 10-kilometre run down. For a day trip that immerses you in an alpine landscape, this one on New Zealand’s South Island is hard to beat. Only in the Himalayas do the mountains have a greater rise from valley floor to summit. The Tasman Glacier, where you’ll ski, flows beneath soaring peaks like Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. See skithetasman.co.nz
Take a peak
For an experience that takes you even deeper into New Zealand’s mountains, Adventure Consultants offers extended trips – six to 10 days, if you wish – using mountain huts as a base and ski touring the peaks and glaciers of the Southern Alps. See adventureconsultants.com
Back yourself
Doug Chatten, Snowy Mountains Backcountry head guide skiing Watsons Crags, deep in the Snowy Mountains.
The quality and versatility of the equipment – for skiers or boarders – has sparked a boom in backcountry touring beyond the ski lifts. For introductory sessions or extended expeditions into the Snowy Mountains, Guthega is a brilliant launching point and Snowy Mountains Backcountry is the operator to make that launch with. See snowymountainsbackcountry.com.au
Bridge the gap
An advantage Thredbo has for ski tourers is that you can cheat (if you can call it that) slightly and gain altitude with the lifts before you embark on a tour. Depending on the weather and snow pack, that tour might take you on an easy run all the way to Dead Horse Gap, or out to Australia’s summit at Mount Kosciuszko. See thredbo.com.au
Hop on a heli
Methven Heli-ski will take you to the best ski terrain in the Southern Hemisphere.
National park laws forbid heliskiing in Australia, but there are plenty of options across the Tasman. Most companies operate around Queenstown and Wanaka, where you’ll find the most terrain, but you can also heliski around Mount Cook and right in the heart of the mountains at Methven. See methvenheli.co.nz
Sleep in an igloo, by gums
Stay in Australia’s first igloo village near Mt Hotham.
Snow-shoe your way to a secluded spot among the snow gums outside Hotham Alpine Resort and stay overnight in Australia’s first igloo village. Enjoy a gourmet three-course dinner then watch the stars before retiring for the night. Finish your stay with a snowmobile ride back to the resort. See alpinenatureexperience.com.au
Join the clubs
Have fun off the slopes with a family-friendly game of disc golf on Australia’s highest golf course. Instead of using clubs and a ball, you’ll use a flying disc with baskets to aim for, nestled among bushland beneath the ski slopes. See thredbo.com.au
Hit the trail
There are more than 100 kilometres of marked trails in and around Perisher Ski Resort for cross-country skiers to get their workout. These groomed trails weave through the snow gums as they make their way around the resort’s peaks and plains. Leave the lifts behind and explore Australia’s alpine country. See perisher.com.au
Take the glide of your life
Skiers ride on the Coronet Express Chairlift at Coronet Peak, in Queenstown, New Zealand.Credit: Getty Images
Jump right off the top of one of New Zealand’s biggest ski resorts, on a tandem paraglide. Ride the chairlifts of Coronet Peak Ski Resort to 1800 metres above sea level, then jump off for the best views in Queenstown. See tandemparagliding.com
Get stars in your eyes
Over 4000 square kilometres of New Zealand’s South Island has been recognised as an International Dark Sky Reserve – the largest of its kind on Earth. The best views are from Mount John Observatory in Tekapo. See darkskyproject.co.nz
BEST OF THE REST
Relive the glory days
Out on the Craigieburn Range, about 90-minutes from Christchurch in New Zealand’s South Island, the terrain is the stuff of ski movies and the hospitality from the glory days of alpine adventures. Pack your fat skis (there’s no grooming) and head to the likes of Craigieburn (craigieburn.co.nz) or Broken River (brokenriver.co.nz).
Come back for the comeback
Pre-pandemic, it was bushfires that put Mount Selwyn, NSW, out of business. It almost made a comeback for winter 2022, but late autumn rains put paid to that. It’ll be all the more welcome when the lifts start turning this season on the rebuilt ski field in the west of the Kosciuszko National Park. See selwynsnow.com.au
Don’t pass up the Pass
Families, especially with younger children, and ski tourers have a lot going for them at Charlotte Pass, NSW, just down from Mount Kosciuszko, where winter access is by oversnow transport from Perisher. There are five lifts serving mainly gentle terrain. The hub of the tiny village is the Chalet, in many ways the place where Snowy Mountains skiing was established. See charlottepass.com.au
Go, go Buffalo
It was a pioneer in Australian alpine tourism, but Mount Buffalo has fallen from the radar since bushfires wiped out the last of its lifts. Yet for some extraordinary cross-country skiing, keep an eye on the snow cover and when it’s good, so are the trails at Buffalo. And trail use and access are free. See parks.vic.gov.au
Make this your first resort
With its village among the snow gums and modest lift network, Mount Baw Baw in Victoria’s east, makes for a good-value introduction to snow sports. The terrain is encouraging and all the facilities are there – including equipment hire and lessons. It’s also a good option for a day trip and some tobogganing. See mountbawbaw.com.au
Be at cross purposes
Only two hours from Melbourne, Lake Mountain is a great place for tobogganing or building a snowman, but its real strength is in cross-country skiing, with 35 kilometres of groomed trails just for that pursuit. Shuttles are available from nearby Marysville if it’s crowded. See lakemountainresort.com.au
Meet the other Big Ben
With its own alpine village and small lift network, Ben Lomond has introduced a lot of Tasmanians to the wonderful world of snowsports. It’s a short drive from Launceston, there are sea views from the summit and all the usual equipment hire is available. See benlomondalpineresort.com.au
Go tow to tow
Mount Mawson is a small, volunteer-run club field that’s also open to the public. It’s about a 90-minute drive from Hobart in Tasmania’s Mount Field National Park. There are three rope tows that mainly run on weekends but may open weekdays in school holidays. See mtmawson.info
See why it’s all relative
The ski resorts of New Zealand’s Mackenzie Country are all family-owned. Ohau has been owned by local couple Mike and Louise Neilson since the mid-1980s. Local mechanic Peter Foote built Mount Dobson ski area in the 1980s with his son now running it. Midway between, Roundhill has been owned by a local family since 2012. See mackenzienz.com
Lodge your interest
New Zealand’s North Island offers two unique club fields where you’ll pay a fraction of the price of major ski resorts, and you’ll get to stay at ski-in, ski-out club lodges. Tukino (tukino.org) is on the eastern slopes of Mount Ruapehu, while Manganui (skitaranaki.co.nz) is near the west coast town of Taranaki.
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